ARGENTINA: Iguazu Falls - the face of God

I'M AT: Hostel Sweet Hostel, Puerto Iguazu. A nice chilled place, very small, bathroom just big enough, kitchen for making nice pasta in.

The Iguazu Falls are enough to convince an athiest of the guiding hand of God. Enough to inspire a man to die for beauty. Enough to send you smack down onto the floor, moaning and bubbling and thanking fuck that you're alive, and nowhere else but here. It's the highlight of my trip so far. They're. Just. Staggering.

The falls are accessed from both sides of the Brazil-Argentina border. The Argentinian side needs a day, cos there are loads of different walkways and viewpoints. They're right up close to the bottom of the individual falls. You can go for a walk on an island beneath the falls, and there's a train to the main highlight, the Garganta del Diablo, Devil's Throat, above which you stagger at the crash and majesty, on wet planks.

The Brazilian side needs only half a day but features, in my opinion, the best view. You walk, again on wet boards, to the foot of the Devil's Throat, and just gawp open-mouthed at the immense mounds of crashing white, pouring onto the battered black rocks below. And you see a wide panorama, and rainbows, and swifts darting forth, and it makes you believe any of the lies you've ever been told about heaven.

Good god. Forget Macchu Picchu, this is the most incredible place in South America.